Power for most slot car tracks
comes from a power pack. Power
packs contain a transformer
which reduces high voltage house
current to a safe 12 to 20V
(depending on car type) and
usually a rectifier which
changes AC to DC, for cooler
running and simpler motors.
High-capacity lead-acid
batteries are sometimes used for
hobby slotcars, but toy
race-sets may use dry cell
batteries at 3 to 6 volts.
Controllers ("throttles") vary
car speed by modulating the
voltage from the power pack.
They are usually hand-held and
attached by wires to the track.
Besides speed control, modern
racing controllers usually
feature an adjustable "brake",
"coast", and "dial-out". Braking
works by temporarily connecting
the rails via a resistor; this
converts the car's motor into a
generator, and the magnetic
forces that turned the motor are
now slowing it down. Coast
allows a certain amount of power
to continue to the track after
the driver has "let-off" (which
would normally cut all power to
the car). A dial-out allows the
driver to limit the maximum
power that can reach the car.
The early rail-car tracks used
telegraph keys, model-train
rheostats and other improvised
means to control car speed. The
first commercial race sets
(1957) used handheld controllers
with a thumb-button; like the
telegraph key, these were either
on or off, requiring the driver
to "blip" the throttle for
intermediate speeds. Later
versions had an intermediate
speed, and one late version used
a buzzer mechanism to provide
full-range speed control.
From 1959 to about 1965, most HO
slot sets had a table-mounted
controller with a miniature
steering wheel or simple
dial-knob operating a rheostat
(variable resistor), which gave
precise control throughout the
car's speed range. This type
could be left on a particular
speed setting, making it very
suitable for model highway
layouts, but they were awkward
for racing. Around 1960,
handheld rheostats began to
appear. The earliest had
vertical, thumb-operated
plungers. Aurora had a plunger
design in which a stack of
carbon/silicon discs replaced
the rheostat. Thumb-plunger
controllers, were popular
throughout the 1960s, but
eventually were supplanted by
the trigger-operated pistol grip
controller, introduced by Russ
kit in 1965. In this style,
control was by the index finger
and the heat-generating rheostat
was moved up above the grip for
comfort and effective
ventilation. The Russkit
configuration has remained the
standard controller style, both
for race sets and serious
hobbyists, from the late 1960s
to the present day.

For good response, rheostats
must be matched to the
particular cars involved - to
race different classes of cars,
several controllers with
different resistance ratings are
often required. In the 1970s,
electronic additions to the
rheostat controllers became
popular, which allowed them to
be tuned to the particular car
being raced. Some modern
electronic controllers dispense
with the rheostat altogether,
and can be used for all classes
and types of car. Digital slot
cars generally use a controller
that is trigger operated, though
the rheostat housing is replaced
by a slim bulge containing the
electronics.
On most tracks, a driver will
plug or clip his personal
controller to his lane's
"driver's station," which has
wired connections to the power
source and track rails. Modern
controllers usually require
three connections - one to the
power terminal of the driver's
station (customarily white), one
to the brake terminal (red), and
one to the track terminal
(black). Conventional slot car
tracks are wired in one of two
ways: with the power terminal
connected to the power source
positive and the brake terminal
negative (called "positive
gate"), or the other way around
("negative gate"). Modern
controllers feature a switch
which adapts them for either
gate configuration.
Check out the C&R Raceway to
feel the exhilaration and
excitement felt by the real
drivers throughout the world!
Hope to see you soon!